Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos by Hire Car: Which Mountain Route Works?
Updated October 17, 2026 · 5 min read
The answer first. Drive it yourself if you want long stops: Chora, Chalki, Filoti, Apeiranthos and back is one clean loop. If you would rather not drive the bends or want wine with lunch, take the private Chalki, Filoti and mountain villages tour at €153 per person. For a cheaper, fixed-timetable alternative, there is the highlights bus tour at €30.
The loop in order
Take Chalki first, then Filoti, then Apeiranthos, and return to Chora the same way. Apeiranthos is 28 km from Chora, so the distance is short; what takes time is the road, parking and the walk inside each village. Budget at least two to three hours of the day for driving, parking and photo stops combined, plus the time in the villages themselves.
Chalki suits an early start, when the lanes and the car park are quiet; allow one to one and a half hours. Filoti sits at the foot of Mount Zas and fits lunch. Apeiranthos is the village that deserves the longest stop, around one and a half to two hours, because its marble-paved lanes are the main reason for coming. These stop lengths are a suggested pace, not a rule.
Parking and the car you need
You park at the edge of each village and walk in; the lanes cannot take cars. The route uses paved roads with bends, gradients and narrower sections, and an SUV is not needed. Choose a small car you are comfortable with, and consider an automatic if the gradients worry you. Begin early in July and August to improve the margin for parking.
Drive, group or private driver?
| Choice | Duration | Price | Rating | Better for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Private mountain villages tour | 4 hours | €153 per person | 5 (4 reviews) | Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos with an English-speaking driver/guide |
| Highlights bus tour | 8 hours | €30 | 4.8 (2,062 reviews) | Best value, fixed route |
| Small-group tour by minibus | 6 hours | €85 | 4.8 (30 reviews) | Temple of Demeter, villages and local products |
Only four guests have rated the private tour so far, so its 5 stars is a thin signal.
See availability and prices for the private mountain villages tour
See availability and prices for the small-group village tour
When the tour beats the car
Choose a driver if anybody wants to drink, if the party includes someone who dislikes narrow roads, or if you have one afternoon only. Drive yourself if you want to stay as long as you like in Apeiranthos or add a walk. Compare hire cars for Naxos before you commit: pick-up at the airport, port or town is shown on the listing. Keep the rental terms for fuel policy and the excess on hand; our guide to excess, CDW and the deposit lists the questions.
Our recommendation
For one memorable day, hire a small car and do the loop early: Chalki, Filoti, Apeiranthos. If you would rather hand over the wheel, book the private village tour or, for the lowest price, the highlights bus tour.
